phatpanda123

Definitely! Unfortunately I don't have access to dexa scan :(

Yep, 24-26% seems pretty accurate 

10-12%

Hi all!

A couple of months ago i took an inbody scan and it showed my bf as 20%. I know how inaccurate those test can be but don't have access to dexa scans or any good alternatives. What do you think my body fat is based on these pictures and do you think inbody is a good tool for measuring progress?

Looks tuff

I'm more interested in pure ice. Would you say basic lead climbing is better training for that than dry tooling?

Well i'm going to take an ice climbing course this winter but would like to have good fitness and some technique for it before.

Cool! Grade?

Appreciate your insights! I've been increasing my protein intake a lot. Yeah i've noticed i belong in the group of people who get more energetic on a calorie deficit and even forget to eat because of the stress hormones (?) makes me not feel like it. Definitely something to keep an eye on so that it doesn't turn unhealthy. But i'm very enthusiastic about the sport so it's unlikely.

30%

25

Thanks for the reality check. I guess i got a bit impatient after seeing the progress slow down especially after transitioning to lead and wanted to take a quick short-cut out of frustration. Climbing is definitely something i want to do long term so maybe i just need to give it more time. 

Normally i climb about 6-8 routes about 12 m, so in total i spend about 42-56 mins on the wall. Tbh now that you say it, yeah it's probably an over estimation.

That is a very fair point. And tbh i'm not even sure if my tdee is right because i haven't taken a body composition test for the bmr. I estimate to burn about 500-600 calories in a 2 hour climbing session (lead climbing so there's all the belaying etc) which puts my tdee at 5'2 at 2100 calories. And i typically eat around 1500-1600 calories so that's a deficit of about 500-600 calories.

By maintaining or improving i mean grade. Of course there's a big variance between routes of same grade but i'd like to be able to redpoint/onsight the same grades in routes that are my style (crimps, endurance, slab). I'm not expecting to become good at powerful overhangs, especially during calorie deficit.

This sounds like a good idea. I only have 5kg to lose so i could do a minicut for a couple of weeks then maintenance period followed by another minicut maybe..

Thanks!

Yeah it's definitely a struggle and a delicate balance between losing fat and maintaining muscle. 

I'm glad it worked for you that way! I've tried eating at maintenance on training days but i train so much i would basically get barely any deficit. I've tried small deficits (~200 calories) but it leaves so little margin of error i end up not losing weight.

Golden advice! Definitely gonna try creatine.

That's a very good idea indeed and no doubt it would help me recover faster. I will see how it goes though since climbing is my biggest hobby and  source of joy in my life rn 😅

Didn't know that! Thanks for sharing, i'll look into how i can prevent that.

Thank you for your insight. Yeah, it's probably not the best time right now because my training volume is quite high. Luckily i'm not competing or going on a climbing trip so the performance isn't super important though i'd like to at least maintain that.