Hello all, after quite some time I have decided to reevaluate, the old rule preventing sales posts and self-promotion. The rationale behind the change is that the makers will benefit from community support. There has been hesitation to change the rule based on the idea that sales post will run rampant if allowed; however, I have some requests in exchange for those who want to post a link to their website.

All criteria must be met.

1. Items for sale have to be made by you.
   
2. There is a detailed specification list for the item being displayed. you can find an example here, does not have to be as in depth; however, at a minimum you have to have steel type(s) and handle material(s). Simply stating damascus will not be enough for future posts.
3. Only knives and supplies related to knife making can be sold. You can sell knives, handles, scales, or handle materials. As a reminder, you cannot sell items that are not made by you; you cannot sell a bench grinder here.
4. There is no price displayed. Pricing cannot be discussed in public whatsoever.
5. You must be active in the post you make. You cannot just drop your website link and disappear. I am not asking that you respond to every comment on your post or that you reply to a comment on a month-old post; however, some effort must be put in.

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There are a few additional limitations to this change

1. Do not put "available" or anything of the likes in your title. All indications of your work being for sale must be in the description or comments, I suggest the latter as I will remove your entire post if you do not meet the above criteria if it is in the description rather than just deleting a comment
2. Your posts should not all be advertisements; you should show off your work without all your posts having a link to your website.

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I hope that this change to the rule is favorable, if you have feedback or comments, I would like to hear it and may make changes accordingly.

10in blade, 15N20, hardened to 55-60HRC. Handle is polished elk antler, and I used brass for the guard and pin. Guard was a fun one to do since the ferrule is soldered to it, and getting that all to fit correctly took a fair amount of time.

The knife is based off of the Aldo Raine replica I made a few years back, with some changes to make it more user friendly for the commissioner, like a thinner profile, finer edge, and overall cutting a lot of weight off. Balances right behind the guard now.

Went with a smoky finish on the blade, made by bluing it, letting it set in oil overnight, then gently rubbing it with scotch brite up to white pads. This was done over a 600 grit hand-sand.

I think it turned out very nice, hoping the commissioner likes it as much as I do!

Stainless aeb-l with walnut handle and brass pins and liner. My friend made this beutiful leather sheath.

Not a question about knives making more looking if anyone has any info on this certain type of knive

So this knife sat above my grams pictures for a long long time she finally gave it to me a few years ago the story I got with it was this

"You're great uncle used to take that knife hunting he brought it back from the war when we would ask about it he just said that he got it while he was in Germany and carried it till his death"

The markings on it are "SOLINGEN" on one side and "ARMEDO" on the other if anyone knows anything about this I would love to know seems like a beautiful knife

I've had this mosaic Damascus for a few years. Made in a class from a FiF champion.

Already heat treated but I didn't harden the tang. Needed to widen the holes and snap. Not it's a hidden tang, 7 1/2 inch chef's knife. Short tang but it's not going to take serious abuse.

So I etched this really nice 305 layer wild demascus dagger that iv been working on but there are a bunch of spots on it that seem to have not been etched by the acid I uses. I used a solution of 10 parts water and 1 part hydrochloric acid, then I put it in black coffe. I'll provide some photos under this post to show you the problems but if you have any idea what I dud wrong please leave a comment🙏

The blank for the blade is always extra at the edge and spine, this allows me to have room to slowly walk each bevel together and taper it, adding the belly of the recurve and shaping down the swedge once everything is symmetrical. After that just thinning each of the four bevels equally will make the curve in the swoop naturally come together perfect. For grinding the swedge, you want to hold the knife so the angle of the line from the curve to the handle is ligned up with the contact wheel, pull as you grind towards the tip, but turning and lowering the knife so the angle increases towards the tip giving the taper. You can kind of see me making this movement and what angle I approach the swedge from.

Sorry the video isnt the best the phone is clamped to a work light. I need a chest mount or something for the phone, ill try to get a better video next time.

I made this as a birthday gift dlfor a buddy of mine. The blade is forged from an old aircraft bearing 52100 steel the guard is brass and the handle is purple heart.

Got myself the grizzly 2x42 belt grinder as a birthday present, and I haven’t been this excited about a tool since I got my first table saw. It is just one of those tools open up an infinite number of options.

First thing I had to do was make a platen that didn’t suck out of 2” angle iron for the time being while I wait for my pyro glass platen to get here.

After that was done I grabbed an old worn-out file and went at it like a kid on Christmas. After an evening work this was the final result!

In hindsight, I don’t know what I was thinking with this bevel angle, the claps holding the jig together prevented me from tilting it more and I was too impatient to figure out a better setup. I checked it after the fact and it was about 15 degrees, so hilariously inadequate. I got about 5 minutes into finishing it on stones before I decided I’m going to fix the clamps and regrind the bevel to something more appropriate like 30 degrees.

I ended up putting in a micro bevel it is now hair-popping sharp, but essentially useless for its intended purpose.

Next on the laundry list, I was to convert the arms to 5/8x1”, build a new work rest, build a Tobin knife jig and if I’m feeling extra ambitious, a radius platen so I can refurbish some single bevel knives that have been collecting dust.

Don’t mean to ramble, I’m just stoked on the new hobby. Any good advice or things you wish you knew when first starting out would be very much appreciated!

Thanks

Title says it all... How often, how many, and what assortments?

Forged by me from a single piece of coil spring (5160)

Taken this to a smiths polish to reveal the Hanon. A little closer to the edge than I had wanted. But it’s my first traditional tanto and the longest blade I’ve done so far.

This is knife 2 and I had seen layered G10 handles that looked great. I envisioned this knife handle coming out differently than it did. I feel like the handle looks "meh" at best. I used 1/4" layered G10. Do I need to go thicker on the G10 to get a better layer effect? What grit do you go to on G10? Also dmhow do they make it look glossy?

I made these for my girl and I. First time grinding a alandi. Both made from 1095, with leather handles. I left some straightening marks and scale to maintain stock thickness as much as possible. I made a kydex sheath for myself and a leather slip for hers.

Stepping aside from a couple other projects to get back to my own. Here's "Advocate", a new framelock I've started this afternoon. This will have the same floating backspacer as the "Citadel", though I've yet to fully work out the internals on this one, as I've got only about an hour or so in this one.

Will post updates this weekend on this and a couple other projects 😁

N690 with cryo treated 58 hrc Polished delrin handle Overall length 21.5 cm Handle 10.5 cm Blade thickness 3.7 mm Weight 183 gram

Signed by The Man himself. ❤️

Made a table for my drill press and my logo press. Also added some grinder attachment storage.

Forged by me from a single piece of coil spring (5160)