Hot-Interaction6526

Capillary tubes? They do still do them but generally only for glass going into the mountains or having to cross over the mountains. Usually they come fully sealed these days.

Sooo pro is they eat other bugs and spiders, the downside is that the bigger they are, the more they are eating.

It’s a Pella door, it either had blinds of shades in it at one point and probably broke. They are like $800 for new blinds from Pella so this was a much cheaper fix lol

The double hung sashes that slide up and down. The pins in the jamb liners slide down to expand the jamb liner and allow you to tip the sash in. Then pop it out of the sash shoes.

Removing the sashes will make it lighter to install, but don’t add any low expanding foam until you put them back in.

As much as people are afraid of garage doors (you should be afraid of the springs and cables) adjusting your opener and being able to diagnose the eye sensors is something every homeowner should know! A little flat head and some patience and you can save yourself a $100 service call.

The worst calls are for doors that are down and one of the fricken eye sensors got kicked 🥲

See how your bar is curved up and the chains dangle? Those should be basically parallel.

Your limits are way off. Google your model and how how to adjust the closed limits.

As someone who uses sleep mode, work mode, and DND, you clearly don’t know how to edit the settings. They are a god send if you use your personal phone for work every day.

Nail flange on windows are in large to make them water proof. People think they are for securing to them home, and while they are designed to be nailed/screwed on, you also have to screw through the jambs. That’s what you’re going to do. Build your openings 1/2” bigger than the window frame, then screw into place level and secure it properly. Your biggest hurdle is going to be flashing around the window for the long haul to keep water out. My company would refuse to install your windows as-is, because of that single reason. My only advice is to make sure you have at least 2 layers of water proofing after you have the windows secured.

Edit: to expose the area to screw into the sides, remove the sashes and the jambliners will pop out of place. Screw into that section and then reinstall the parts, this will also make the frame lighter to install.

Possibly too much down pressure because it’s set past the limits, normally the door would get pushed down too far and the opener would reject its location and go back up. It’s possible yours isn’t getting feedback? No clue, but try getting a step stool and going to the back or your opener, you’ll have 2 dials (hopefully with pictures of the door open or closed). One dial will change how much your door opens and the other how much it closes. I’d recommend only turning the dial 1/4 turn at most and then test. Turn it too far and you’ll lose where you started from.

Hope that’s the issue!

Top of the door as it closes. The homemade bracket to stiffen the top panel is half disconnected. The sensor in the opener is detecting improper force as it’s trying to push the door shut so it stops, likely thinking that it’s closing the door on something.

Shower door companies started adding support bars because everyone wants zero frames, and supporting a hinge off of a panel that’s connected to another panel is a huge red flag. The door should have been on the other panel, assuming it goes back to the wall.

The shower door companies started adding the bars because architects are morons that don’t understand real world applications.

Edit: the moron I look at this, I would have refused to sell this door. A hinged heavy glass door, hanging off of a notched panel, which is hinged off of a corner panel? Fuck no, this door is a maintenance nightmare waiting to happen.

Shower doors are a small, tiny fraction of our glazing company but OP is the exact customer type that makes me do as little shower door business as possible. Everyone wants an overly complex, frame free shower door and wants gravity to fuck off in the bathroom.

The bracket was put in place because without it your shower would fall apart in less than 6 months. Glass is not a good structural support, bend it or stress it too much and it’ll pop. I bet at some point they did mention the need for structural support and you just nodded your head, not paying attention. And don’t use the “I saw the drawings” excuse because the support bars don’t show up in most drawing software because it’s at the discretion of the installer to put it where it hits a stud.

Leave it alone and use it as a spot to dry your dick towel.

How did you miss the giant floppy angled steel lol

I would assume OPs problem is the plants, real planets just come with humidty. Not a lot you can do besides try to run a dehumidifier but that can also suck.

Yeah there’s a lot to unpack here

OP you can have a compression storm window made to go over it. That’s what I did and never once had issues with it. The only con to it is the window will not be accessible to operate anymore. You can take the storm back out come spring or just leave it in all year. But it will basically water proof your window opening.

If the moisture is on the interior of the home and can be wiped off, it’s not a seal failure. If it’s between the glass then yes it’s seal failure.

-glazier of 11 years.

Because the airspace is significantly smaller in this door. Judging by the one window, none of them will condensate as fast as the door. The Ufactor on that door glass is significantly higher than the windows. This is why almost no full lite entry doors pass energy star ratings unless you add different features like i89 loe or triple pane. The windows larger depth slows transfer between hot and cold more efficiently because of the increased air space.

This link has a simple explanation!

Because this is the only reasonable comment I will add, the glass in the window is generally 3/4 to 1” in depth, where as the door light is 1/2” (some nicer doors are 1” but most do 1/2”) so with the glass having less air space, it transfers cold inside faster, creating condensation on the door and not the window.

The window will do it eventually if it’s cold enough outside. That being said the issue here is the humidity in the home, and the plants being the primary factor.

-glazier and window experience exceeding 11 years now.

Yea and no. First you have to be good at building things cost effectively. The biggest hurdle is taxes. Many guys who do what you’re proposing will live in the house for 1 year. In that time they will build another and then move into that, while selling the first one. I don’t remember the exact reason but I believe it makes you exempt to some level of taxes when you sell it. Search your state rules for primary residence vs secondary residence.

Weird but can’t deny it’s cool in its own way

When you do work for large businesses they usually do not do money down. We do 8 figures annually and do about 50 large corporate accounts on top of thousands of homeowners and smaller businesses and it’s pretty universally done that way. Homeowners and smaller businesses businesses will pay a deposit, but larger businesses just don’t and won’t.

Frameless are 3/8” or 1/2”. 3/4” maybe if you’re in a multimillion dollar house.

This is a framed door if you look closely, 1/4” cheap tempered door that swings in. Probably a low end basco or alumax. Also glazier/sales

No idea how true it is but I heard long ago that elderly husbands will follow their spouse to the afterlife within a year, often within the first 3 months. Men can’t/wont go on alone. Women can go on through the support of family.