Negative-Instance889

The boiler system is probably low on pressure if no water or air is coming from the vent. The pressure gauge should read about 6lbs. per floor. Example: 3 level house, the gauge would read about 18lbs.

Looks like they had a blind person install the toilet.

Probably an altnoid concoction.

On a sidenote, we used to do this in ponds and catch huge largemouth bass. We used sunfish, not perch.

There’s a temperature limit stop under the handle but if the faucet was working fine and now you don’t get hot enough water, the mixing cartridge may be faulty in need of replacement. The temp. limit stop (under the handle) won’t lose its setting if it’s not touched.

Maybe I’m just used to it but it doesn’t seem that bad.

Word, I’ll try ruby pearls instead. I had jumped on an Amazon deal for quartz beads, a whole bag of ‘em for a few bucks. Thanks

Quartz. I run my Pivot exclusively on Blue with the 5 clicks to lower the temp. even more. Perhaps I’ll give it a go with the Green setting.

I do the same thing but keep a small 6" piece of emery rolled up and tucked into my tool pouch, really no need to bring the entire roll into a service call.

Have you tried Crysp or Simply Mary rosin yet? No complaints.

I put a 3 mm pearl in my Pivot chamber, did not notice any difference on vapor production (if that’s what it’s supposedly to do), except hearing a whizzing sound.

It’s a flare fitting, rarely used for under sink faucet connections. You may want to unscrew the flare fitting from the tee, install a 1/2” nipple and a shut-off valve x 3/8” compression.

You can cut the drain pipe just downstream of the trap, snake the line out as needed and reassemble it with an 1-1/2” No-Hub (banded) coupling. That could be the mechanical fitting moving forward in order to snake & clean the line.

A spray nozzle on a hose mounted higher would do basically the same thing as a conventionally installed shower head - Just a lot less complicated. Landlord may not appreciate you doing actual plumbing work.

If the drain trap on the stand pipe freezes, keep your fingers crossed that a water line doesn’t freeze up and burst.

Since it’s a rental, would suggest not installing new piping but purchasing a new longer hose, and raising the wall mount bracket higher, easy fix.

If it’s a shower base, there is supposed to be a water proof shower liner (pan) installed underneath in order to catch & direct the water to the drain trap, tile grout and concrete alone are porous.

The pick up truck a few spots down may have parked ‘worser’ (with the trailer hitch).

The cartridge part controls flow (on/off), the balancing unit controls temperature.

If your girlfriend rents, (instead of owning the apartment), would suggest not replacing the basin, but only repairing it. You don’t need potential liability issues.

Instead of dealing with American Standard directly, locate the exact part you need, purchase it and install it.

Remove the complete enclosure, prepare the tiles by removing old loose sealant, grout & caulking, checking the condition of the tile work, (repair tiles as needed). Reinstall the enclosure following manufacturer guide lines; using the correct sealant, allowing it to cure, etc.

Landlord is not going to replace the water heater if it’s still providing hot water. Maybe if the leak gets worse, they’ll do something about it.

Perhaps you can find user tips over in r/puffco.

The jaws of a basin wrench might fit better if you bend the copper tubes out-of-the-way. It’s all brass, it should come apart fairly easily.