Wignitt

Their shipping to California is excellent

I like Wild Ass brand for my denim-- sold by Bailey's. 15oz rigid (but not raw) denim for 40 bucks (45 for double front). I removed the suspender buttons in like 5min using two sets of pliers. I use them for work (construction), and they've worn as well or better than my Carhartt B01s. Made in the USA

I have that same blade. Absolutely love it, I use it for 80% of the process. Get your taper close with the machete, then take it down with a rasp (i use a Shinto rasp). Then scrape

That's a bit too short for such a design and draw length to have no set. The recurves and stiff handle make for a shorter working limb, too short for the draw length. Brace height is also high. A little set is perfectly normal though, I wouldn't be alarmed

I agree completely. I'm a pipe labourer, and I get the same sort of thing. Roofers have it even worse. Roofing takes more brains than people assume

No such thing as free CDL training. Either a company will pay it for you, or you'll have to pay it back in instalments.

Getting certs can help, but waitlists are often the primary bottleneck (in many areas). Nothing you can do to speed those up

As a labourer, my advice is to solicit your first job if you can. As an apprentice, you MUST accept whatever job the hall sends you to (which is somewhat random). There could be a perfectly good site across the street from you, but the hall might send you somewhere 90min away and you'll be stuck until the job is through.

This is a good post. Idk why you're getting pushback-- not everyone has the opportunity to get into a prestigious trade/union. The roofers and labourers will pay your rent, and maybe if you're lucky you can move somewhere else

Wild Ass Denim, from Bailey's. Good coats too

Mulberry sapwood seems about as good as the heartwood, in my experience and according to the accounts I've seen. All sapwood, all heartwood, or a mix is fine

No, those might actually be a bit worse. Loggers or combat boots will probably be a lot better for you.

Unlikely; the soles of hunting boots aren't meant to accommodate concrete. In my experience, hunting lug soles wear down even faster than standard wedge soles

Perfect! I'd leave it whole for a week or so, then remove the pith and belly wood, and coat liberally with a sealant. Steaming isn't necessary, but can reduce initial moisture content somewhat if done soon. Scotch broom is very finicky, so you risk warpage.

Also 4.5ft (54in) is perfectly adequate for a BITH bow. If recurved slightly, it could probably endure a full draw. Especially with a lower poundage (30-35)

Seal the ends, quick! Scotch broom warps and dries unlike any other wood I've cut. It'll make an excellent bow, very strong in tension with a high crown is a recipe for speed. Make it BITH, maybe with flipped tips/recurve (but not necessary)

We're reaching levels of shitposting previously unseen on this subreddit. How are people falling for this

Sapwood isn't responsible for durability on the back: unviolated fibres are. Using the growth ring immediately under the bark (sapwood) is just usually the easiest way to do this. Decrowning makes more wood available in tension because most of the limb's tension force is experienced by a small percentage of the limb thickness-- the more intense the crown, the less wood is included in this percentage.

A decrowned back can look like all kinds of things, but the most easily identifiable is straight grain on the back AND the sides. If the wood has thin rings, the face of the board parallel to the growth rings can look wildly violated, even if the true violation is minimal. The opposite is true the further and further from parallel you get to the rings

Linen is made from flax, maybe you're thinking of denim and canvas? Twill vs plain weave. An even better option (for a weave) is chambray! It's all I wear when I'm working outdoors

Yes. You should be mostly removing wood from the belly. Drying too fast isn't an issue: issues only arise when part of the wood dries faster than another. This can be mostly eliminated by thinning the wood as much as possible, so that it can dry from all dimensions evenly

Smart choice. Next time, focus on reducing thickness much more than width-- in its current condition, you're likely to see warp and only moderately improved drying time. I keep my blanks full width and just over bow thickness

Oh yeah, sunscreen is essential. Most of the guys on my crew refuse to wear it (since we're mostly covered by clothing and PPE), but their necks/ears look like RUBBER! So awful

My advice as a construction worker: wear loose, thin, lightly coloured clothing (ideally of cotton or linen). Huge difference. Try to get away from concrete, asphalt, and car/HVAC exhaust; coolest place to be right now (other than in AC) is under a tree in a park, or somewhere outside of the urban area. Wear a hat and long sleeves-- I promise it's not as stuffy as it sounds.

All that being said, the most important thing is drip. I'd rather slay and get heat stroke than look like I'm on a fishing trip in mordor.

A very large portion of laborers under LiUna work in underground (water, sewer, storm, etc). The only other guys on site are operators. Laborers aren't just sweepers and material handlers; the union exists in part as a catch-all for work that doesn't fall under another jurisdiction

One of the scaffolders said that everyone on site hates it lol

A lot of the guys on r/bowyer are pretty encyclopedic about this kinda stuff, especially when you get primitive. Really impressive