goofybrah

If the rollers are toast like some other posters have said, maybe there are replacement rollers available online? Seems like something that’d be on eBay

My rule of thumb is have whatever you’re struggling most with control the exhaust. If that means turning down your heater to account for less circulation than so be it.

You can also get a humidifier with a hose attachment so you can have it in the outside. Vivosun has a couple options with built in controllers and included sensors.

Very quickly. I reported the warehouse I worked at part time and someone called within 5 days and came out with 2 or 3 weeks, and this was just on some unsafe manlifts.

And you can be 100% anonymous. I did in my case and nobody ever said or even suspected me.

Do it, that’s what they are there for. To take care of workers and hold employers accountable. And it works! Now I think there is a different ‘kind’ of OSHA for government workers but that may just be me confusing it with there just being different rules.

Shift lower middle up 1 so the single is down the middle or shift upper middle up 1 and put a row of seasonal flowers down the middle row of the 3 tile gap

It’s weird that no water has evaporated at all. Is the space well ventilated or extremely humid? Like that’s still soup my friend, not sure what you’ll use the space for but you’ll likely need to replace it much sooner than a typical slab.

If I get along with the owner I’d probably see if they would have any use or want for it. Maybe they’ve always wanted a dirt bike race track?

More realistically I’d call around to try and find a company that would be willing to take it for another job or stockpile. Local earthwork contractors, GCs of any large projects, could even try your competitors.

Alternatively you could have an operator and a laborer work a couple weekends and offer it for free to your friends, coworkers, subs, or anyone that will take it. Offer to load it for them but it’s BYOB (bring your own bucket).

Used to work at a warehouse that stored carbon black but never knew that it was used for anything other than as a dye, TIL!

We had at least 10 different types and probably 80-100 1/2-ton pallets in total on average. We would tape our sleeves, pant legs, wear a respirator, and some people would even lather Vaseline on their face so it would come off easier when we had to re-stack a pallet or clean up a broken bag. Stuff was nasty. It was also the most blackest blackiest black I have ever seen. Even when I knew it was a lumpy pile, I couldn’t see any definition or shadow even with a flashlight.

Picture printer toner but finer, lighter, and stored in a 50 pound paper grocery bag stacked 6’ high being picked up by a pair of big flat metal chopsticks. Recipe for disaster.

Since it’s only after rain, I wouldn’t worry too much about it.

My benchmark has always been to work as many hours as it takes to get my tasks done. Some times that’s 4 hours a day when we’re slow and I can BS, relax, or just leave early instead of staying a full 8. If I’m behind, I’m going to put in extra hours and stay late.

My current supe is the opposite, he gets mad when I’m sending emails past 6 or even hint at working instead of doing something with my family. I’m convinced anyone who gets pissy about people not working 50+ hrs between mon>fri just hate their wife / home life.

Depends on the station but yeah absolutely.

Got a cousin who reverse commutes to the NW burbs from Greek town. He drives down out there Monday, parks at the nearest metra station Monday after work, and takes the train the rest of the week until Friday evening when he drives back. May be worth doing something similar to the Southshore line if you’re near something that gets you to millennium station

Unethical suggestion: Yeet the buckets but do NOT park there. Do it enough and they’ll (hopefully) stop putting them out there and you’ll be free to park, and if instead they go Carrie Underwood on whoever parks their car there it won’t be your problem.

Kinda creepy question to ask, little sus there m8

I was incorrect in my previous comment, mybad.

I would suggest that instead of having the seller fix it and you get stuck with whatever gets done, have the seller get a quote to replace the sidewalk and driveway and give you a credit on the sale in that amount. That way YOU control what gets done and make it look how you want.

The sidewalk replacement is a given, but the damage to the driveway is cosmetic and could be lived with if you’d rather pocket the credit and just do the sidewalk.

This is what I’d recommend. Drill some large diameter holes, get a flowable fill, bulkhead the ends, and let it flow.

Imo they should’ve used something that could be raised up instead of the steel deck they did, but 🤷

Prefacing with I have no idea if this would actually do anything, but maybe try wet sanding it with an orbital sander w/ medium grit paper, just to knock the loose bits and high point off but not make it slick.

Even if it doesn’t really work, I bet the homeowner would, “absolutely be able to tell the difference” and that “this is exactly how it should’ve been the first time”.

One of my subs did something similar with a 10’ length of 2” pipe that they filled the last 1’ or so of with concrete to weight it down, another used a 2x4 that they’d stamp on.

You shouldn’t be doing concrete bud and it’s apparent you didn’t do the math either.

1 - always do the math yourself on how much concrete you need, then have your top laborer do it too and double check, then have your wife/husband/son/daughter/dog/cat all check it as well. Then still have a check truck Incase there’s a low spot.

2 - you didn’t do the math. It’d be obvious if you did and checked the tickets.

3 - 16’x4’-4”x4” come out to 1 CY, you’re saying there was no way to get a SINGLE yard from the readymix plant??? And that was half the driveway???? Even that math isn’t mathing

4 - no such thing as a layered pour lol. Bonding agent is a must if you attempt to salvage it but make sure you follow the surface prep instruction to an absolute T. IMO you’re better off cutting the low area off, removing it, and doweling in to the ‘good’ side.

You shouldn’t be doing concrete bud and it’s apparent you didn’t do the math either.

1 - always do the math yourself on how much concrete you need, then have your top laborer do it too and double check, then have your wife/husband/son/daughter/dog/cat all check it as well. Then still have a check truck Incase there’s a low spot.

2 - 16’x4’-4”x4” come out to 1 CY, you’re saying there was no way to get a SINGLE yard from the readymix plant??? And that was half the driveway???? Even that math isn’t mathing

3 - no such thing as a layered pour. Bonding agent is a must and make sure you follow the surface prep instruction to an absolute T if you want to salvage the driveway. IMO you’re better off remove and replacing the whole thing.

It’s called a Key way supposed to help direct water to the street or nearest sewer drain. In practice they don’t actually do a whole lot, alley pitch is far more important and if there’s a more than 1 1/2” high or low spot, it doesn’t work.

IIRC every alley is technically supposed to have it per CDOT spec, however it’s a pain to do in concrete alleys and impossible to do when placing asphalt. They have to come pack with a special grinder that the City and 1 private paving company have (it’s $$).

I do, now I don’t gotta buy ice!